I'll be showing you how to build a picket
gate. The equipment you need, you need some pickets. You need a gate frame. You need some
posts. You need some concrete, a shovel, spirit level, a saw. You need drill drivers. You
need your safety gear, a sawhorse. You need some screws. First thing I'll be doing now is putting the
two posts in for the gate. We will be setting them in concrete so we will need to let them
dry at least 24 hours. The next thing I'm gonna be doing is using
a square to transfer a line from the brick wall to the fence. Now usually a square might
not be long enough to reach the fence, so a little tip is just to run a picket along
this edge of the square, and you can mark it off on your fence when your square's flush
on the brick wall. And these two marks are now where I'll be putting the face of my two
My next step will be to dig the post holes on both sides. Now that we've got our holes dug, I'll be
mixing the concrete. For these posts, we'll be using the quick-set concrete so there's
gonna be 20 minutes of working time, and it'll set hard enough so the following morning you're
gonna hang your gates. I've now mixed the concrete, so I will be
putting the post into the hole. I've got the post on the mark, on the brick wall. I'm just
leveling it up now. I'm holding it firm up under the brick. Okay, so I've got my one
post in now. Now I'm back to the second post, and this one will go in deep. Using the spirit
level, I will level it up again. The posts are in. Now we will let them sit. I will recommend
24 hours. So this post was put in last night, so now
we will be drilling our holes in the post for the Dynabolts, and we'll be
countersinking the Dynaboltsmaybe 30 mm so we can get it.
It is a hundred mm
Dynabolts so we can get it firmly into the brick, and that will firm our post
to hang a gate off. So first I'll be marking three spots in the
middle of the brick because that's where we get the strongest fix. So now I have marked
that on my post where I'm to drill my holes, so the next thing I'll be doing is using my
25 mm spade bit to countersink approximately 30 mm into the post. The next thing I will be doing is drilling
my hole through the post. I have put a pencil mark on the drill bit which is just short
of going through the whole post, and that way as I'm drilling I can see my pencil mark
coming up, and I can stop drilling before I hit the brickwork. I will be now using my hammer drill with my
10 mm masonry bit to drill holes into the brick from my 10 mm Dynabolts.
The Dynabolts is 100 mm long, and since our counter sunk 30 mm into the post,
we will get enough depth into the brick to hold it firmly.
Now that I have drilled my three holes, I
can get my Dynabolts and hammer it into the hole and tie that up with my socket
set. The next step now is to measure the difference between the posts. I'll measure it top and
bottom to make sure I've got a fairly square opening. That measurement determines the length
of the horizontal bars of the gate, and next step will be to measure and cut on all three
horizontal parts so we can put the gate together. Now that we have cut our three horizontal
rows, it's just a matter of assembling it together. Now it's just a matter of putting
some of the screws supplied with the gate. Based on the surface that we are doing on
our pathway, we determined that the picket height should be around about there. The gate
frame will sit just under the collar of the picket head, so I've pencil marked the little
spot on the post. Now I know where to hold the gate frame as I screw it up.
After putting my first screw in, I now put
a spirit level on. Make sure I can get the gate frame quite straight, and then I'll put
my next screw, just one there in the bottom as well. Now I can adjust it a little bit.
I can bring the bottom out a little bit more to keep the gap a little bit more even. Now that my hinges are screwed to the post,
I'm gonna lift the gate off the hinges, take it over to my sawhorses, and we will screw
the pickets under the gate frame. After clamping my first picket in place, I've
worked out my spacings with the view of finishing with a full picket, and we've ended up with
about a 50 mm gap. The thickness of the picket is 65 mm. A 50 mm gap means that I mark off
at every 80 mm. Before I screw a picket stand, I'm using a
drill with a countersinker on it, and that stops the hardwood pickets from splitting
as I screw it down. Now I will lay my pickets out, and as I screw them and drill them, I'm
moving to my little mark that I've marked out.
I have now screwed my top pickets on, so I
will be doing the bottom ones there. I've got a line the same as I did at the top, and
I've drawn a line down the middle so I can get a straight line with the screw holes there
because the pickets will then already be in place. You would notice as I screw them on I pull
them up to my little line marking so I know that the gap's gonna be the same every time. So now I'm just gonna hang my gate, and one
of the last things before I put ledges on is to cut the tops of my post.
I normally cut the post off about 2 cm above the heart of the pickets. Now that both posts
are marked, it's time to get my saw and cut the top of the post. Because of the heart
of the post, it's probably better not to use a circular saw.
So that's it. That's how you build a picket